Categories
dog training Dogs

Hill’s Puppy School

I am a proud member of the Hill’s puppy school trainers.  Hills has sponsored puppy school initiatives for the last 20+ years, with an aim of educating new pet parents in the care of their puppies, as well as to give them the tools to help their pet adjust happily to society and be a joy to live with.

It is well known that a well-adjusted pet, that fits into the roll the owner anticipated, is more loved and better cared for.

Hill’s mission statement:

To lengthen and enrich the special relationship between people and their pets, whilst reiterating the importance of nutrition for a long and healthy life

The Importance of Puppy Classes
All too often owners wait until their dog’s behaviour has become a problem before they start training. While progress is definitely on the cards with older dogs, the impact that a good puppy socialising school has on a puppy throughout its life cannot be understated. In addition to being socialised with other dogs, puppies learn to respond rather than react to new situations or challenges.

Puppy school helps puppies refine their communication skills They are exposed to other puppies, adults and children. This is one of the most valuable lessons you can teach your new puppy. All types of puppies (pedigreed and crossbreeds) should enroll in a recognised puppy school. Family pets, show dogs and working dogs in particular benefit as the training stands them in good stead for their future “career”, be it family guardian, show stopper or lovable mutt!

As a good owner you ensure that your puppy receives his vaccinations to prevent disease – puppy school could be likened to a behavioural vaccination. A lot of potential problems can be averted by taking your puppy to puppy school.

Categories
Dogs

Spirocercosis in dogs

Spirocercosis is a parasitic disease mainly of domestic dogs, caused by the nematode (worm) Spirocerca lupi. Spirocercosis occurs mainly in tropical and subtropical regions. It is a debilitating disease and can lead to acute death. There has been a marked increase of clinical spirocercosis among dogs in South Africa, in both urban and rural areas.

The adult spirurid nematode is a relatively large worm, pink-red in colour with males and females reaching 3-4cm and 6-7cm respectively.

Life cycle
The adult worm is embedded in a nodule in the thoracic (chest) esophagus. It passes eggs which are excreted in the dog’s faeces. Eggs hatch after ingestion by an intermediate host, a small black dung beetle. These small dung beetles are found in the grass around the faeces. The large dung beetles often seen rolling balls of dung on farms or game reserves are not the intermediate hosts. Birds, lizards, frogs, snakes, mice, rabbits and rats are sometimes incidental or paratenic hosts. The definitive host (dog) will become infected if it ingests either the beetle or an incidental host.

The life cycle within the dog takes approximately six months. After ingestion, the larvae penetrate the stomach wall, enter the arterial system and migrate to the aorta in the chest. They then migrate through wall of the aorta to the esophagus. A nodule (granuloma) forms in the esophagus.

Aberrant migrations have been described in the thoracic cavity organs as well as migration to the spinal cord.

Large breed dogs appear to be predisposed and, due to the lengthy life cycle, it is uncommon in dogs under a year of age. As can be seen from the life cycle, spirocercosis is not contagious between dogs.

Clinical signs
The nodules are generally situated in the esophagus between the heart and the diaphragm. These nodules result in the clinical signs such as vomiting, regurgitation (food comes up immediately after swallowing), the inability to swallow properly and weight loss. The larval migration may cause low-grade inflammation and infection, resulting in general malaise and fever. Other symptoms include coughing, enlarged salivary glands, excessive salivation, joint inflammation, spondylitis of the chest vertebrae. Some dogs can develop an aortic aneurism which results in acute death with bleeding into the chest. These cases may show no pre-existing symptoms. In long standing cases the nodule can transform into malignant cancerous masses.

Aberrant migrations cause atypical clinical signs of spirocercosis. Aberrant S lupi can be present without the characteristic signs, rendering the ante mortem diagnosis of aberrant migration difficult.

Diagnosis
Any dog with a history of chronic weight loss, regurgitation, difficulty in swallowing, abnormal salivation or coughing should be evaluated by a veterinarian for Spirocercosis.

Normal overview or contrast radiographs (using barium) are helpful in diagnosing large nodules and extensive disease. This is relatively easy to perform, safe and does not require sedation or anesthesia. Small nodules in the early stages of the disease could be missed however.

Endoscopy is a sensitive method, earlier lesions (small nodules) can be detected and the extent of the disease can be evaluated. Biopsies of the nodule(s) can be done using an endoscope. This method however requires general anesthesia and is more expensive.

Faecal flotation tests can be helpful, but are not very reliable. The eggs are difficult to detect and infection will be missed if the worm is not shedding eggs at the time of the faecal examination.

Treatment
The only drug at present to which the worm is sensitive is Doramectin and ivermectin. At this stage relatively little research has been done and there is no standardized treatment protocol. Owners should take note that Doramectin is a drug used for sheep, and is not registered for the use in dogs. Therefore owners have their dogs treated with this drug at their own risk.

The drug is safe in all dog breeds, except in collie dogs and herding dogs. This includes border collies, rough collie, smooth collie, bearded collie, old English sheepdogs as well as Australian shepherd, cattle dogs and possibly less common herding breeds. These dogs may carry a mutation of the multiple drug resistance – 1 (MDR-1) gene. Should they carry the MDR-1 gene, it results in Doramectin causing neurological symptoms and possible coma.

There is however a laboratory test available to detect the MDR-1 gene mutation and it is advised that all collie, collie crosses and herding breeds are tested before the drug is used. Should the dog test positive a special low dose protocol is used.

All confirmed cases, as well as other dogs in the same household are treated with Doramectin. One of the protocols is to inject the dogs with Doramectin subcutaneously every two weeks for six treatments. The drug may also be given orally.

Affected dogs should be re-evaluated for the success of the treatment. A nodule that shows no regression in size after four to six treatments of therapy should be biopsied to test for cancer formation.

Side effects of treatment
As discussed above, the drug appears to be safe in all dogs with the exception of collie breeds and herding breeds which should be tested first. Rarely the following symptoms may be seen while the dog receives the Doramectin treatment: dilated pupils, apparent blindness, muscle tremors, disorientation or coma. Should any of these symptoms be noted the treatment must be stopped and the owner should seek veterinary advice immediately.

Prevention
As can be seen from the life cycle the most important method for prevention of infection is to remove dog faeces as soon as possible. The intermediate host is the very small beetle that lives in the ground, and if the faeces is removed promptly, the life cycle of Spirocerca lupi is interrupted. A dog can only become infected by eating a beetle in which the Spirocerca egg has developed into an infective larva.

Due to the increase in prevalence in South Africa, it has become an acceptable approach to treat all dogs as a preventative measure with a Doramectin course twice a year. Bear in mind that routine deworming does not affect Spirocerca lupi. The dog should be weighed to establish the correct drug dosage.

The treatment and prevention of spirocercosis is an area which requires further research.

References

  • Van der Merwe, Liesel. 2008. Treatment options for spirocercosis and methods to prevent infection. In the Proceedings of the 4th South African Veterinary and Paraveterinary Congress, p 307-310. SAVETCON
  • Kirberger, R. 2008. Imaging of spirocercosis. In the Proceedings of the 4th South African Veterinary and Paraveterinary Congress, p 298-303. SAVETCON
  • Dvir, E. 2008. Spirocercosis associated aberrant migration and clinical complications. In the Proceedings of the 4th South African Veterinary and Paraveterinary Congress, p 296-298. SAVETCON
  • Christie, J. 2008. The lifecycle of Spirocerca lupi and different faecal examination techniques used in the diagnosis f spirocercosis in dogs. In the Proceedings of the 4th South African Veterinary and Paraveterinary Congress, p 293-295. SAVETCON
  • Du Toit, C. Scholtz, C. Wyman, W. 2008. Prevalence of the dog nematode Spirocerca lupi in populations of its intermediate dung beetle host in the Pretoria metropole, South Africa. In the Proceedings of the 4th South African Veterinary and Paraveterinary Congress, p 288-292. SAVETCON
  • Last,R. Smith, R. 2007. Spirocerca lupi – Fascinating new facts and research opportunities. In Vet news, July 2007, p 25-30. Published by the South African Veterinary Association.

By Dr Frederique A Hurly (BVSc, MPhil)

Categories
dog training Dogs

Introducing a new dog into an existing pack

I frequently get asked the best way to introduce a new dog into an existing pack. Obviously a lot depends on the breed, age and sexual status of the animals involved. If you have a geriatric dog and want to bring in a new puppy, is it really fair to allow the old dog to have a puppy bouncing all over it when it wants to live out its life in peace? And if you have an adult dog and want to introduce another adult, what is the best approach to adopt?

In my opinion, there are a few basic rules that need to be applied. Should you wish to bring a new adult dog into an existing doggy household, the first criteria should be to be aware of the sexual status of the dogs (i.e. it would be really silly to expect two intact adult dogs to get along with each other, whether they be males or females). Sterilize the dogs concerned, and that will lower the likelihood of there being a fight. If the existing dog has not been regularly socialised throughout its life (i.e. taken off the property to training, taken for regular walks in different environments, been allowed to meet a variety of different animals and people of all ages, etc.), then there will probably be a problem when the new dog is brought home. Think of it from the existing dogs’ point of view. It has had thi s house all to itself for the duration of its life. It has never been off the property except for occasional veterinary visits. It has no clue about “life on the outside”. And you go and get a new dog and expect your dog to just accept it. If is extremely unlikely that this will happen. If, on the other hand, your dog has been regularly and well socialised, it will make the introduction of a new dog much easier.

If the new dog is a puppy, it is important that the adult dog has been exposed to puppies in the few months prior to the puppy’s arrival. I had one person ‘phone me, who was most upset that her 8 year old Labrador attacked her new puppy. When questioned, this lady admitted that Labrador had not been off the property for 8 years and last saw a puppy when it left its dam and litter mates 8 long years ago!! How can any dog with this background even know what a puppy is, let alone want to welcome it into its home?

Probably the best approach to both of these scenarios would be to:

  1. Ensure that your dogs are all regularly taken off your property and socialised with other dogs, animals and humans.
  2. When your new dog (be it an adult or puppy) comes home, keep it separate initially. Perhaps allow contact through a security gate, or keep the existing dog on lead until you are able to properly assess the situation.
  3. It is often a good idea to introduce adult dogs in an environment foreign to both animals, and to keep them on (loose) leads until you can be sure that they are receptive to one another. It is important that all humans present are relaxed and at ease. This helps the dogs to realise that everything is OK and their owners are in control.
  4. Swop the new and old dogs around. E.g. new dog outside, old dog in the house. Then put the old dog outside and have the new dog in the house. This way the new dogs’ smell starts to permeate the old dogs’ environment, and starts to become part of the background. As we all know, the sense of smell is vitally important to a dog. It helps them understand about what’s going on around them. This method allows the old dog to understand what the new dog is all about, without having to have the visual stimulation of seeing it.
  5. Never allow a young puppy to run unattended with an adult dog. Accidents happen incredibly quickly and can have horrible consequences. E.g. a friend of ours acquired a new puppy, and introduced it into his existing 3 dog household. His dogs were extremely well socialised, so no problem there. All the dogs played together, slept together, ate together, etc. They’d had the puppy about 2 weeks when the owners quickly popped out to the shop to get some milk. When they returned, their puppy was on 3 legs. A visit to the vet and resultant x-ray showed that the puppy’s foot had been crushed. On returning home, they discovered that a flower pot had fallen over, no doubt crushing the puppy’s foot. The puppy had been bought as a show dog, and was also destined to work in various canine events. Unfortunately this wasn’t to be – the foot never fully recovered, even after extensive veterinary attention. The puppy limped for the rest of its life, and of course suffered from arthritis as it grew older. It was unable ever to compete.

If you are in any doubt about how the introduction of another dog might affect your family, speak to your veterinarian and your trainer. You could also consult the breeders of the dogs to find out if they have a suggestion that could make the transition of the new dog in to your house easier. It is far better to prevent an unpleasant reaction from the dogs than to try and fix it afterwards.

The bottom line is socialise, socialise, socialise your dog. The more confident your dog is with strange things and different situations, the more relaxed and happy it will be.

Categories
dog training Dogs

The History and Misconceptions of Dominance Theory

The original alpha/dominance model was born out of short-term studies of wolf packs done in the 1940’s. These were the first studies of their kind. These studies were a good start, but later research has essentially disproved most of the findings.

There were three major flaws in these studies:

These were short-term studies, so the researchers concentrated on the most obvious, over parts of wolf life, such as hunting, the studies are therefore unrepresentative drawing conclusions about “wolf behaviour: based on about 1% of wolf life.

The studies observed what are now known to be ritualistic displays and misinterpreted them. Unfortunately, this is where the bulk of the “dominance model” comes from, and though the information has been soundly disproved, it still thrives in the dog training myths.

For example, alpha rolls. The early researchers saw this behaviour and concluded that the higher-ranking wolf was forcibly rolling the subordinate to exert his dominance. Well, not exactly. This is actually an “appeasement ritual” instigated by the SUBORDINATE wolf. The subordinate offers his muzzle, and when the higher-ranking wolf “pins” it, the lower-ranking wolf voluntarily rolls and present his belly. There is NO force. It is all entirely voluntary.

A wolf would flip another wolf against his will ONLY if he were planning to kill it. Can you imagine what a forced alpha roll does to the psyche of our dogs? Finally, after the studies, the researchers made cavalier extrapolations from wolf-dog, dog-dog and dog-human based on their “findings”. Unfortunately, this nonsense still abounds.

So what’s the truth? The truth is dogs aren’t wolves. Honestly, when you take into account the number of generations past, saying “I want to learn how to interact with my dog so I’ll learn from the wolves” makes about as much sense as saying, “I want to improve my parenting – let’s see how the chimps do it!”
Dr Frank Beach performed a 30-year study on dogs at Yale and UC Berkeley. Nineteen years of the study was devoted to social behaviour of a dog pack. (not a wolf pack. A DOG pack). Some of his findings: male dogs have a rigid hierarchy. Female dogs have a hierarchy, but it’s more variable. When you mix the sexes, the rules get mixed up. Males try to follow their constitution, but the females have “amendments”. Young puppies have what’s called “puppy license”. Basically, that license to do most anything. Bitches are more tolerant of puppy license than males are. The puppy license is revoked at approximately four months of age. At that time, the older middle-ranked dogs literally give the puppy hell – psychologically torturing it until it offers all the appropriate appeasement behaviours and takes its place at the bottom of the social hierarchy. The top-ranked dogs ignore the whole thing. There is NO physical domination. Everything is accomplished through psychological harassment. It’s all ritualistic. A small minority of “alpha” dogs assumed their position by bullying and force. Those that did were quickly deposed. No one likes a dictator. The vast majority of alpha dogs rule benevolently. They are confident in their position. They do not stoop to squabbling to prove their point. To do so would lower their status because ….. middle ranked animals squabble. They are insecure in their positions and want to advance over other middle ranked animals. Low ranked animals do not squabble. They know they would lose. They know their position, and they accept it. “Alpha” does not mean physically dominant. It means “in control of resources”. Many, many alpha dogs are too small or too physically frail to physically dominate. But they have earned the right to control the valued resources. An individual dog determines which resources he considers important. Thus an alpha dog may give up a prime sleeping place because he simply couldn’t care less.

So what does this mean for the dog-human relationship? Using physical force of any kind reduces your “rank”. Only middle ranked animals insecure in their place squabble. To be “alpha”, control the resources. I don’t mean hokey stuff like not allowing dogs on beds or preceding them through doorways. I mean making resources contingent on behaviour. Does the dog want to be fed? Great – ask him to sit first. Does the dog want to go outside? Sit first. Dog want to greet people? Sit first. Want to play a game? Sit first. Or whatever. If you are proactive enough to control the things your dogs want *you* are alpha be definition. Train your dog. This is teh dog-human equivalent of “revoking of puppy license” phase in dog development. Children, women, elderly people, handicapped people – all are capable of training a dog. Very few people are capable of physical domination. Reward deferential behaviour, rather than pushy behaviour. I have two dogs. If one pushes in front of the other, the other gets the attention, the food, whatever the first dog wanted. The first dog to sit gets treated. Pulling on the lead goes nowhere. Doors don’t open until dogs are seated and I say they may go out. Reward pushy, and you get pushy. Your job is to be a leader, not a boss, not a dictator. Leadership is a huge responsibility. Your job is to provide for all of your dog’s needs – food, water, vet care, social needs, security, etc. If you fail to provide what your dog needs, your dog will try to satisfy those needs on his own.

In a recent article in the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) newsletter, Dr Ray Coppinger – a biology professor at Hampshire College, co-founder of the Livestock Guarding Dog Project, author of several books including Dogs: A Startling New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behaviour, and Evaluation; and an extremely well-respected member of the dog training community – says in regards to the dominance model (and alpha rolling) – “I cannot think of many learning situations where I want my learning dogs responding with fear and lack of motion. I never want my animals to be thinking social hierarchy. Once they do, they will be spending their time trying to figure out how to move up in the hierarchy”.

By Dr Ian Dunbar
(veterinarian and animal behaviourist, Dr Ian Dunbar is Director the Center for Applied Animal Behaviour, Founder of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and host of the popular British TV series Dogs with Dunbar. Ian is the author of numerous books and videos)

Note: the information in the above article came from an interview with Dr Ian Dunbar, who spent nine years studying the social behaviour of dogs during the study mentioned below. This is a non-copyrighted piece.

 

Categories
dog training Dogs

How to have a Polite Puppy the Clicker Way

A puppy that sits is generally far more socially acceptable than one that jumps up against folk, muddying their clothes and scratching their legs. A puppy that sits rather than growling and tearing at ones pants is much more likely to get positive attention from friends and family. A puppy that has learnt to sit when greeting strangers is likely to earn you an admiring look – after all, aren’t puppies untrainable? Don’t they always behave like hooligans when they’re only a few months old?

So how does one go about teaching a puppy manners?
First choose a cue that is easy for all people to follow, such as crossing your arms over your chest. Whenever someone stands with their arms crossed, the puppy should sit. So how to you teach a puppy to be so polite?

 

Get out your trusty clicker and some treats that your puppy particularly likes. Ensure that your puppy is clicker conditioned by clicking and treating him a few times, and watching for the startle response when he hears the click sound.

Then watch for your puppy to glance your way. The moment you have eye contact, cross your arms. Do not say “sit”. Do not say anything. Do not move. Just stand there and look at your puppy.

If he sits, click and treat. If he remains sitting, keep clicking and treating him. After a short while, click and throw his treat to one side, thereby making the puppy stand up to go and get it. Fold your arms again, and your puppy should offer another sit. Click and treat.

If your puppy doesn’t sit, move closer to him so that he has to bend his head right up to maintain eye contact. This will probably cause his bottom to lower towards a sitting position – click and treat.

If he jumps up on you, just turn and walk away. As soon as he stops jumping (or chewing at your pants, or investigating an ant), move towards him again and try and elicit eye contact. As soon as you have it, fold your arms and wait for the sit. Click and treat when it is offered.

In a short space of time, your puppy will start sitting every time he sees you fold your arms. Now you need to take this on the road. Get your friends and family to look at the puppy and then fold their arms. If the puppy sits – click and treat. Repeat this with different people, in different environments, with more distractions.

Categories
dog training Dogs

Clicking Puppies into Agility

The rule of thumb for introducing puppies to agility is that
a) they should never be forced to do anything they are reluctant to attempt and
b) they should never be asked to jump higher than their elbow height.
By using the clicker, (a) is taken care of, and by using common sense, (b) can also be addressed.

As anyone who has competed can tell you, there is a lot more to agility than just getting the dog to go over a jump. Puppies can certainly learn some of the techniques involved in accurate jumping from a fairly young age, bearing in mind that obviously their understanding and ability to perform will depend on their musculature and co-ordination. Always remember the clicker trainers mantra – “any animal can be taught anything it is physically and mentally capable of doing”. So watch your puppy and make sure that you are not asking him to do something that is outside of his capabilities. I like to teach stays fairly early on (most 8 week old puppies can do a 30 second down stay within about 5 minutes of clicker training during their first class). This not only teaches the puppy self control, but also helps with the wait at the start once the dog is old enough to enter a show.

Why is clicker training preferable to other more traditional types of training? The basic difference between clicker training and other reward-based training is that the animal is told exactly which behaviour earns it a reward. This information is communicated with a distinct sound, a click, which occurs at exactly the same time as the desired behaviour. The reward follows. There is a huge difference between an animal that behaves with purpose, rather than by habit. Clicker trained animals will always try to learn new behaviours. They remember behaviours years later because they were aware of them as they learned them rather than acquiring them without awareness. They develop confidence because they have control over the consequences of their actions. This engenders not only confidence in themselves, but also trust in their handler and great enthusiasm to achieve.

Once the puppy is conditioned to the clicker (i.e. startles on hearing the sound and looks around for its treat), one is ready to begin. I like to start with basic ground work, including:

  • teaching the puppy to heel on both left and right of the handler (thus ensuring that the muscles on both sides of the body develop evenly and that the pup is able to work on both sides of the handler),
  • teaching control of back legs by doing ladder work. This also helps puppies who are fortunate enough to have tails how to use them to help with balance.
  • Click and treat the puppy for moving between two uprights. You can then place the cross bar flat on the ground and click the pup for moving over it. Some puppies may choose to jump rather than run over even when quite young.
  • clicking the pup for running down a straight jumping lane (here you may choose to just use uprights, or you could lay the cross bar flat on the ground). The pup can be taught to run alongside you down the jumps, as well as run ahead of you (perhaps throw a toy ahead to encourage this behaviour and click when it moves ahead of you. The treat here can either be the retention of the toy, or a food treat once you catch up with the pup), and of course a recall down the lane towards you.
  • The puppy can be taught to run through an angled jumping lane so that he learns to judge angles and not slam into the uprights.

Here I feel it should be re-iterated that in clicker training no collar or lead is used. The puppy is free to interact (which earns it a click and treat if it performs correctly), and it is free to wander off if it needs a tea break. This freedom engenders trust in the handler, and encourages the puppy to think and problem solve for itself. Often during “tea break time” I’ve found that a dog will solve a problem by itself, and then come back and offer a perfect performance.

Certain of the obstacles can also be introduced to puppies. A fairly regular item in my puppy classes is the tunnel – both collapsed and rigid. Once the puppies have been clicked and treated for going through, it is a battle to keep them out of it! They love it and frequently you see the tunnel bulging whilst 3 or 4 puppies try to race through and get to the other end first. Of course if the pup is a bit nervous, one could squash (or foreshorten) the tunnel up so there isn’t such a great distance to go through. Within a 15 minute session the vast majority of puppies will not only be most willing to rush through the tunnel, but will also go through the rigid tunnel when it is curved into a “U” or an “S” shape.

Other ground work exercises include getting the pup to volunteer to walk the plank. I.e. place a flat plank on the ground and shape the puppy to walk along it. Once again, you can teach it to walk alongside you, go ahead of you (here we generally use a send away to the puppy’s blanket: a very easy exercise for a 10 week old pup), as well as recall along the plank. You could then put a very small branch or pole underneath the plank so that it teeters as the pup walks over. Voila! The beginning of the see-saw.

The A-frame may be taught in a similar way – place it as flat as it will go (mine only lowers to about a metre in height) and click and treat the puppies for going over. If the pup is a tiny breed (pug, min pin etc.) it is often easier to teach them to go over at an angle, rather than attack it straight on. I.e. teach the pup to start at the bottom right hand corner and move to the top left hand corner, and then go down the other side towards the bottom right corner. Just gives the little chap a bit more traction. Does it need to be mentioned that the puppy should never be allowed to lift its head when going over the A-frame or dog walk? Obviously the musculature of a little puppy is not developed and if you, for instance, try and lure your puppy over the obstacle with food held in your hand above the pups head, you are risking serious injury to the puppy’s cervical spine. Keep the head down at all times. Put food on the A-frame if you must, but never feed from your hand. This has a two-fold benefit – not only does the puppy keep its head down (which leads to a faster and more accurate obstacle, as well as lessening the risk of injury), but it also gets the pup thinking that the A-frame is rewarding it, rather than the handler. That way the handler can move well away from the A-frame quite soon, and just ask the pup to run over the obstacle.

A lot of emphasis should also be put on teaching warming up exercises. Be cautious about a lot of repetition of these if you pup is very young. But there is no reason why and 8 week old puppy can’t learn to bow-wow, spin, figure of 8 through your legs, roll over, etc.

As the puppy gets a bit older, one could introduce concepts like back crosses, front pivots etc. And of course the names of the various pieces of equipment. You can quite easily clicker train a puppy to recognise that “over” refers to running between two uprights, rather than zooming through the tunnel; or that “walk on” means totter over the plank instead of trying out the A-frame.

Bending poles are a potential danger zone for dogs whose growth plates have not yet fused. Much better to click and treat your puppy for entering with the first pole on his left hand side rather than getting him to twist his body in and out in an (what is for dog) unnatural manner. You could put up two rows of poles slightly apart from each other, and click your puppy for running down the channel, thus getting him used to have poles on either side. But teaching poles a la clicker is so easy, I tend to leave this obstacle until the dog is a lot older.

It is also fun to make jumps out of strange things e.g. two crates on their sides with a pole on the ground between them; or a couple of unfurled umbrellas on their sides, etc. Not many dogs get to compete with the jumps they have learned on at home, and the sooner they learn to cope with all sorts of visual stimuli the better. Click and treat for confident approaches to whatever strange articles you manage to think up.

In closing, a word of caution. Remember that what you click is what you get. So if your timing is bad and you click the puppy at the wrong moment, that is what the pup is likely to repeat. And never forget the golden rule – every click is followed by a treat, even if you made a mistake and clicked at the wrong time.

Agility is a wonderful sport for both handlers and dogs. Have fun with your puppy, but never forget that at his tender age it is better to err on the side of caution. Rather do too little strenuous exercise than risk an injury that might impair his chances of success in later life.

Categories
dog training Dogs Vom Paladin Malinois

Highveld Belgian Shepherd Championship Breed Show : 23 June 2013

This show is open to all four varieties of Belgian Shepherd i.e. Groenendael, Lakenois, Malinois and Terveuren, all of which were represented. It is a specialist show, which means that only Belgian Shepherds may participate. The judge was Edith Gallant.

You might remember that Dika’s last litter consisted of 9 puppies – one male and eight females. One of the females went down to Linda van Zyl in the Cape. At the HBSDC the other eight puppies rallied to compete against each other, with the exception of Kenzie, whose owners Camilla and Darryl decided not to enter her as she had just been spayed. There was a great deal of camaraderie amongst the owners, not to mention a lot of excitement as the puppies got together in a group for the first time since they were 8 weeks old. (they were 6 months and 3 days at the show). The resulting pandemonium caused the collective noun for Malinois to be changed to “A Chaos of Malinois”.

Here are some pictures of the puppies competing at the show:

Categories
Dogs Vom Paladin Malinois

RIP Sangio, man’s best friend

Written by his owner, Anton Ferreira

Sangio is the sire of Ch. Oaktreegardens Anushka of vom Paladin, and therefore grandfather of our latest litter.

The story of Sangio is not that long really, relative to, say, the age of the planet. Just nine years and four months. That’s how long he lived, in physical terms.

In physical terms? Well, yes, because I refuse to believe he has completely, totally died. He is still with us. He must be, in some form, or there would be no point.

Let’s start with his full name: Sangiovese de la Domaine des Trois Pignons of Skilpadstasie. What this grandiose name means is that someone, somewhere, thought Sangio was going to set the doggy beauty world of Crufts on fire one day, and needed a suitable name. Domaine des Trois Pignons is the name of the breeders’ kennel, Skilpadstasie is a small farm in the Cederberg.

He was a pure-bred Belgian Malinois, conceived in France, born in America, died in Africa.

His mother, Malice – we have to stop right there to explain her name. It sounds like “malice” as in malice aforethought. The kind of aggravating factor that spells the difference between mere life in jail and a lethal injection aftera nasty, emotional court case. An appropriate name for a Malinois, some would say.

However this malice is the French malice, pronounced ma-lease,with the stress on the second syllable. It sounds quite different to the English mah-lis. For all I know, it might mean exactly the same. But I like to think that in French it’s a quaint Continental variation of Alice. Which is as pleasant an innocent girl’s name as you could care to imagine. Think Alice in Wonderland.

Anyway, Malice’s owners were French/French Canadienne, living in Colorado, who wanted to breed her. But being French, they didn’t believe there were any male dogs in all of America who were worthy of impregnating Malice. Who had herself been imported from France.

“They are so ugly,” said Malice’s French owner, Christophe, explaining the problem with American dogs.

So Christophe took Malice to Bordeaux and set up a one-night stand with a dashing French Malinois. Malice got pregnant and Christophe returned with her to Boulder, Colorado.

Which is where, a few months later, I first met Sangio, eight weeks old, one of five remaining puppies in the litter. My wife and I were living in Tacoma Park, Md., at the time, and flew out to pick him up.

At that age, all puppies are equally adorable. We could have picked any one of the five, but we wanted a male, because we already had a bitch, Shumba the Zulu dog, and the conventional wisdom is that if you’re introducing a new dog to an existing human/canine pack, it’s better if the new guy is of the other gender. Otherwise they try to kill each other.

Shumba tried to kill Sangio anyway, despite him being a sweet young male, but that is a separate story.

Christophe and his wife Dawn had already earmarked Sangio for us. They named him, by the way. There’s a convention in dog breeding circles whereby all dogs born in a given year have names beginning with the same letter, in this case S. And then all dogs in a litter will be named according to a theme – in this case, wine. There was Sangiovese, Syrah, Salice, Shiraz, Sauvignon, etc.

I was okay with that, because wine is my favourite beverage.

Sangio ended up with a range of names, all of which he recognized perfectly. There was Sangio, spoken sternly, which indicated he was engaged in an inappropriate activity and should stop forthwith. There was Sanji, pronounced in a high-pitched, happy, sing-song way, Saaaan-gee. This I used when he was roaming out of sight and I wanted him to come running. Running was in fact the only way he ever came.

There was the monosyllabic Sanj, uttered with urgency, when I needed his immediate attention.

Then there was the range of baby names – Noodle, Sanji Noodle, Mr Nibbles, Mr Naughty Nibbles, Silly Noodle, etc etc – that I used, for example, when he grabbed my sleeve and chewed it affectionately. He knew humans didn’t take well to having their actual flesh chewed affectionately, so he chewed instead on the cloth around the flesh. He did this a lot, without ever creating a hole in any of my shirts. I’ve no idea how he managed this trick.

I spent a lot of time with him when he was growing up. With a Malinois, this is not negotiable. They are not spaniels, they are not Labradors, they are not those cute Chinese Shar-peis. They are a breed unto themselves. They are like Border collies, except more active and possessed of a great deal more energy. And way, way brighter, of course.

These are dogs whose genes were programmed for sheep herding duty in the ancient, rough countryside of Belgium in the days when that boggy land was roamed by marauding bands of Goths and Huns. As long as guarding sheep and chasing Goths kept them busy, they were fine. But then Belgium became largely paved over with cities, shopping malls and French fry kiosks, and there was no more room for sheep.

The Goths took to smoking too much marijuana and collapsed on the floor, inert.

Scores of Malinois owners were left with hyper-active dogs with no sheep to chase, and no harmless outlet for their energy.

And a Malinois with no harmless outlet for its energy is a bit of a liability.

So Belgian Malinois owners devised a special activity for their dogs, called ring sport, which at its most simple consisted of putting a dog in a ring with a man in a padded suit and a stick and seeing how many times the dog could bite him.

The dogs loved it.

The dogs that were good at it were bred with other dogs that were good at it. So the Malinois became selectively bred to be an expert speed biter of humans.

This is a very useful trait in many circumstances. But living in Tacoma Park, with scores of free-range toddlers stumbling about the streets like so many sweet bunny rabbits, their parents poised with multi-million dollar lawsuits, I needed to keep Sangio out of trouble. So I filled his daily schedule with training – heel, down, sit, stay, come, the usual. Then there was Schutzhund, a quaint German variation of the let’s-bite-humans-in-protective-gear game. But the most fun was agility, the canine obstacle course sport.

Sangio was very, very good at this, because his obsession was chasing balls, or Kongs, or Frisbees. And he knew that the faster he completed the agility course, the sooner I would throw a ball for him to chase.

This is what I loved about Sangio, his ability to reduce all of life’s quandaries to one simple question – what do I need to do to get the two-legged ape to throw the ball?

Unfortunately his agility career came to a premature end when he twisted an ankle while chasing a squirrel down a flight of steps.

Soon after this accident we moved to Skilpadstasie, the aforementioned farm in the Cederberg north of Cape Town, where the only limit on Sangio’s ball-chasing pursuits was the strength and endurance of my arm. It gets hot in the Cederberg, 45 degrees Centigrade in the shade. And Sangio liked to swim, so we quickly devised a new game for those long, hot summer days.

I would sit on a rock next to our swimming hole, in the shade of a pepper tree, open an ice cold beer, and throw a Frisbee into the water. Sangio would jump in, retrieve the Frisbee, bring it back to me, and wait quivering with staring eyes for me to throw it again. Sometimes he would shake himself when he climbed out of the water, sending a shower of tiny droplets in a wide arc. If the sun was behind him, the light caught the droplets and turned them into a spectacular spray of silver.

I never put it to the test, but I’m certain Sangio could have played this game for at least 48 hours non-stop; he would have been ready for his next dive into the water even as I collapsed in a heap from sleep deprivation.

It was such a pleasant way to spend an afternoon. Throw the Frisbee, bask in Sangio’s joy, admire the water droplets, sip my beer, throw the Frisbee, repeat. Observe the weaver birds, listen for baboons, keep an eye out for black eagles. Mull the meaning of life.

Inevitably, after 35 minutes, or 45, I would start to feel guilty. How could I spend the whole afternoon throwing a Frisbee for my dog? Was there nothing more productive, more meaningful I should be doing? Something that would bring in some income? Some kind of work?

Next time I met someone who I wanted to impress, and he or she asked me with a raised eyebrow: So what do you do? I would only be able to answer, “I throw a Frisbee into a pond for my dog to fetch.”

Intimidated by such thoughts I would rise, hang the Frisbee in the tree, ignore Sangio’s pleading eyes, and go into the house. There I would wash the dishes or vacuum or sit in front of the computer, assuaging my guilt by bowing to the gods of duty and not having a good time.

Too late, I see my mistake.

Because Sangio is dead now, and with him those idyllic afternoons. First it was a persistent cough, that I put down to seasonal allergies. The cough didn’t go away, so we took him to Vet No. 1 who diagnosed kennel cough and prescribed antibiotics.

The cough still didn’t go away, so after a few months we took him to Vet No. 2, who diagnosed pneumonia. A new set of antibiotics.

The cough still didn’t go away, so we took him to Vet No. 3, who took X-Rays and discovered the problem was Sangio’s heart. It was swollen, or in laymen’s terms, too big. The pressure on his lungs was making him cough.

A new set of pills, not antibiotics this time. The antibiotics had been a waste of time. The new pills, the vet warned us, would not cure the problem. They would just postpone the final day of reckoning.

Sangio’s cough went away and he continued to chase his ball with as much enthusiasm as ever. He was fine, I told myself. He had a ravenous appetite, bright eyes, healthy tongue, loads of energy.

Meanwhile I took a job in the city, two hours away, to help pay the bills. It was too far to commute every day, so I spent five days a week in the city and weekends on the farm in the Cederberg.

When I came home from the city, Sangio ran around the car in hysterical joy, jumped up at me, licked me, nibbled me, and did everything in his power to show me that my return after five long days was the best thing that had ever happened in the history of the universe.

Unconditional, boundless love. Whether it comes from a child, a parent, a spouse or a dog, it’s the most precious thing in creation. And Sangio had an infinite depth of it.

My work week is from Tuesday to Saturday. I return to the farm on Saturday night, and leave for the city on Tuesday mornings.

Sangio knew this. On a Tuesday morning, he would see me put my bag in the car ready for the commute into the city, and he would go and lie down on his bed. He didn’t like long goodbyes.

One recent Tuesday morning, he seemed subdued. I interrupted my usual departure ritual to go to his bed, kneel next to it, and stroke his head in a farewell gesture. “See you on Saturday, Mr Noodle,” I said. He gave me a doleful look.

Shortly after I got to the city, my wife called to say Sangio was acting strangely – he had vomited up his breakfast, and was hiding under a bush. She talked about taking him to the vet.

Then at 1:56 pm she called again. I was just about to go into a news conference.

“He’s dead,” she wailed. “Sangio’s dead.”

I sat through the news conference in a daze. A government minister was announcing an inquiry into a heinous crime, but it didn’t matter. It was not important.

Sangio was dead.

I drove home, arriving after dark. I went into the courtyard where Sangio still lay on his side next to the pot plant where he had died. He looked like he was sleeping, but his tongue protruded unnaturally from his mouth.

I sank down next to him, stroking his head, hoping that my wife had made a mistake, that he was still alive. He was cold, stiff.

I wrapped a blanket around him and lifted him into a wheelbarrow, then pushed him in this hearse to the grave that had been dug.

I filled up the hole, thinking: Why do we heap dirt on the bodies of those we love?

I lay awake for hours that night, and when I finally fell asleep I dreamed of Sangio. He was full of life, tongue out, eyes bright. “Sanji, where’ve you been my boy?” I asked. “Where’ve you been?”

Categories
Dogs Vom Paladin Malinois

Beauty and brains combined or Form Follows Function

I have always believed that dogs that were designed to work should do so. The emphasis in our breeding kennel is that all dogs used for breeding must be breed champions and have a working qualification. Our current brood bitch, Ch. Oaktreegardens Anushka of vom Paladin recently proved that dogs can excel in both the working and beauty arenas. Earlier this year she qualified BWT (scoring 100% for her manwork) and IPO1. She also has qualifications in Working Trials Classic and International Tracking Trials.

The Highveld Belgian Shepherd Dog Club’s specialist Championship show on 19th June 2011, was judged by Mrs Addy Smits, who is a highly respected and well-known judge. Under her, Dika won the Champions class. She then went on to win Best of Breed (Malinois).

This show had the highest entry of Malinois in the club’s history, with a 2 point c.c. being awarded for the first time. Dika’s son from her last litter, vom Paladin Gregor, owned and handled by Yolan Friedman won the male 2 point c.c., showing that it is in the genes. Gregor gained his Canine Good Citizen award on the same day. Dika then went on to win Reserve Best in Show, coming second to a Terveuren.

Categories
Dogs Vom Paladin Malinois

Our dogs in action

Dika taking mid-air stick blows from Nick Vannerom, a Belgian FCI recognised instructor and tracklayer, as well as a licensed IPO helper. Nick and his Malinois, Doc van het Dreiland, became Vice Belgian Champion FCI All-Breeds in 2009 and Belgian Champion for Belgian Shepherds in 2008. In 2009, Nick was awarded best IPO Sportsman of the Year (All Breeds). Nick visited South Africa in April 2011 to give an IPO seminar, which I attended with 2 of my Malinois.